原文标题：
Well Informed
The chemicals that reduce wrinkles
Vitamins, applied properly, can partially reverse the effects of ageing
前沿消息
减少皱纹的化学物质
维生素如果使用得当，可以有部分抗衰的效果
Paragraph 1
A BIOCHEMISTRY textbook sometimes feels like essential reading when shopping for wrinkle-reducing products.
在选购抗衰除皱护肤产品时，有时候翻一下生物化学教材很有必要。
Their labels list molecules like retinoids, antioxidants, peptides and exfoliating acids.
产品标签上标注着维A类物质、抗氧化剂、肽类、去角质酸这类成分。
The names might be familiar, but does anyone know what they do?
这些名词大家或许都耳熟能详，但有多少人清楚它们真正的作用是什么吗？
Many of the claims that they will make skin appear more youthful rely on company-funded studies or consumer surveys rather than rigorous clinical evidence.
许多宣称可重塑年轻肤质的说法，依据多是企业资助试验与用户调研，而不是严谨的临床证据。
Yet a handful of ingredients do have a solid scientific backing.
不过，确实有少数几种成分，有可靠的科学依据做支撑。
Paragraph 2
Older-looking skin comes about via two distinct processes: the passage of time and environmental damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) light, pollution and smoking.
皮肤老化主要源于两种不同因素：一是随时间的自然衰老，二是紫外线辐射、大气污染物、吸烟等外界环境损伤。
All of these harm the collagen and elastin fibres in the extracellular matrix, the skin’s structural scaffolding, causing wrinkles and sagging.
这些因素会破坏皮肤支撑结构——细胞外基质里的胶原蛋白与弹性纤维，从而导致皱纹和皮肤松弛。
Around 80% of ageing in white skin is caused by UV exposure, according to Abigail Langton, a dermatology researcher at the University of Manchester—the melanin in darker skin provides some degree of protection.
曼彻斯特大学皮肤科研究员阿比盖尔·兰顿说，白种人约80%的皮肤衰老诱因是紫外线暴晒；深肤色所含黑色素可形成一定防护屏障。
Paragraph 3
If your wrinkles worry you, then the ingredient with the strongest scientific backing that might help is tretinoin, also known as all-trans retinoic acid.
若皱纹问题令你烦恼，目前科学证据最为充分，具备改善作用的有效成分是维甲酸，也称全反式维甲酸。
A derivative of vitamin A, it was originally developed as a treatment for acne, but in the mid-1980s dermatologists noticed that patients who used it had fewer wrinkles as well as fewer spots.
维甲酸是维生素A衍生化合物，最初是用来治疗痘痘的药物，但在1980年代中期，皮肤科医生发现，使用这种药物的患者皱纹和色斑都减少了。
Studies of skin biopsies, as well as non-invasive skin imaging, revealed that tretinoin thickens the epidermis, the skin’s outer layer, making it look smoother and improving fine lines.
皮肤组织活检与无创影像学检测研究显示，维甲酸可以增厚皮肤外层表皮组织，使皮肤变得更平滑，淡化细纹。
It also stimulates collagen production in the dermis, the layer that sits just under the epidermis.This seems to partly restore the extracellular matrix and reduce wrinkles.
同时维甲酸还能刺激表皮下方的真皮层生成胶原蛋白，对细胞外基质起到部分修复作用，进而消减皱纹。
Paragraph 4
Tretinoin is generally only available on prescription and it can irritate the skin.
维甲酸多是处方药，使用后容易刺激皮肤。
Milder retinoids—molecules derived from vitamin A—such as retinol and retinal, are used in over-the-counter creams and serums.
视黄醇、视黄醛等温和的维A类衍生物，广泛应用于非处方护肤乳与精华液中。
Once they are absorbed by the skin, these chemicals are converted into tretinoin.
这些成分被皮肤吸收后，会转化为维甲酸。
Pricier formulations often contain those derivatives that convert more easily or are more stable.
高价位配方常选用转化活性更强、更稳定的同类衍生物。
Although over-the-counter retinoids are less aggressive, it is still sensible to start with a lower concentration (those as low as 0.04% can be effective) and work up to avoid irritation.
虽然非处方维A酸类物质相对温和，但为了避免刺激，最好从低浓度开始用（0.04%浓度就可产生护肤功效），然后逐渐增加浓度。
Paragraph 5
There is also support for the anti-ageing effects of certain antioxidants, chiefly vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
部分抗氧化物质的抗衰效果也有科学依据，主要代表是维生素C（抗坏血酸）。
This plays an important role in collagen production, and there is evidence it can reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
维生素C在胶原蛋白生成中发挥着重要作用，已有证据表明它能淡化皱纹和减少色素沉着问题。
The downside is that it is unstable and can break down quickly if products are not formulated or stored correctly.
但缺点是维生素C不稳定，如果产品调配工艺不佳或是存放不当，它很容易分解失效。
An expensive cream can become ineffective if it is left lying around for too long.
再贵的面霜，如果放置太久不用，可能会失效。
Paragraph 6
Peptides, another common ingredient, are short chains of amino acids.
肽类是另一种常见护肤成分，属于短氨基酸链。
Some encourage the production of extracellular matrix proteins, others prevent their breakdown and some relax the face muscles, in a manner similar to botox.
有的催生皮肤基质蛋白的生成，有的防止蛋白流失，有的能放松面部肌肉，效果类似肉毒杆菌。
The scientific studies used by cosmetics companies to claim anti-wrinkle benefits are, however, typically conducted or funded by those same companies.
不过，美妆企业用以支撑抗皱功效宣传的科研试验，普遍由企业自主开展或全额资助。
Paragraph 7
All these ingredients can be, and are, combined in different ways.
所有活性成分可以搭配组合，市面上也有各式各样的搭配配方。
And they need time to work: dermatologists recommend sticking with the same regimen for several months before judging the results and making any tweaks.
护肤见效需要耐心：皮肤科医生建议固定一套护肤方案坚持用上几个月，然后再评估效果并微调搭配。
But though these ingredients may partly reverse the signs of ageing, prevention is more effective.
尽管这些成分能在一定程度上有逆转皮肤衰老的效果，但防护永远比修护更有效。
Nothing beats protecting yourself against the sun.
做好防晒才是重中之重。
（恭喜读完，本篇英语词汇555左右）
原文出自：2026年6月13日《TE》Science & technology 版块
本文翻译整理: Irene
本文编辑校对: Irene
仅供个人英语学习交流使用。
【重点句子】（3个）
Older-looking skin comes about via two distinct processes: the passage of time and environmental damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) light, pollution and smoking.
皮肤老化主要源于两种不同因素：一是随时间的自然衰老，二是紫外线辐射、大气污染物、吸烟等外界环境损伤。
It also stimulates collagen production in the dermis, the layer that sits just under the epidermis.This seems to partly restore the extracellular matrix and reduce wrinkles.
同时维甲酸还能刺激表皮下方的真皮层生成胶原蛋白，对细胞外基质起到部分修复作用，进而消减皱纹。
This plays an important role in collagen production, and there is evidence it can reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
维生素C在胶原蛋白生成中发挥着重要作用，已有证据表明它能淡化皱纹和减少色素沉着问题。
自由英语之路